Under new recommendations from the WTO, wine produced direct from grapes should be considered from the country of fermentation and manufacture. However wines made from grape must should be considered legally from the country where the grapes were grown.

This apparently contradictory recommendation has been made by a special WTO rules of origin committee trying to harmonise rules of origin internationally.

For must wine, the committee says: "The distinctive features of a wine are defined by the quality and thus the origin of the raw material, the grapes."

For wine from grapes, it says: "Wine is a totally different product from grapes or grape must.  It is substantially changed and given new characteristics by a fermentation process."