When the French accuse the Americans of arrogance, you know we live in strange times. And when Americans feel strongly enough about a situation to change the name of their favourite junk food (French Fries to Freedom Fries) you know that the country is hopping mad. But whether the called-for boycott of all things French will come to anything is doubtful. Certainly at the moment the evidence suggests that while American consumers have principles enough to give up cheese that smells like a wino's trousers, they're finding it harder to renounce claret.