It happens twice a year in the wine world: history unfolds. Every new vintage rewrites the book. The first southern-hemisphere vintage of the new millennium has already made its mark; now we wait to see what Bordeaux, Burgundy and the rest of the northern hemisphere can manage for 2000. The only certainty is difference. Difference from what went before; difference from the performance of peers; difference from expectation itself. Therein lies the confounding joy of wine.